More than 60 years of history abound at Lou LaBonte's

Oldies - but goodies! That's the best way to describe Lou LaBonte's restaurant, which this week celebrates its 61st year in Auburn.The penchant for moving to the foothills to escape the stress of big city living isn't new. Even back in the '40s folks were eager to leave the bustling Southern California scene for the tranquility of our section of the state. Lou LaBonte, who'd been a musical arranger in Hollywood, was one of those who fell in love with the serenity of the northern foothills on his numerous trips to Lake Tahoe. Thus when his eyesight began to fail, it was natural for him to look here for a new career and a new home.So he became a restaurateur, opening first in 1946 in a four-story building in Weimar with a "Skyroom" for private parties. It was an instant success.The menu was simple, a big hit with travelers heading "up the hill" and coming back again, as well as with local folk. There was fried chicken in a basket, New York steaks, 25-cent hamburgers and homemade apple pie, personally produced by Lou's wife.In 1955 when Interstate 80 expanded and took his property, Lou moved the restaurant to its present location on upper Lincoln Way, continuing to offer space for private events in the "Back Room," as well as elegant dining space and a warm atmosphere in the bar area.Since his death in 1973, Lou's daughter, Judi LaBonte, has owned and operated the business, which continues to be popular with locals and tourists alike."It's the only life I've ever known," Judi admits. "I grew up with the restaurant and I love it."And it shows. Bright flowers fill the boxes that line the walks outside in the summer. In the winter crackling fires burn in the two big fireplaces. There's always a big Christmas tree, which Judi trims herself. And at Thanksgiving and Christmas there's a sumptuous buffet which draws folks back year after year. (Make your reservations early.)"We have great memories of my dad," Judi says. "He was a golfer and a sports car enthusiast. Two of his Ferraris and his 1912 Pope Hartford were on display ay Harrah's Automobile collection in Reno."Over the years, the menu at the restaurant has changed. Gone are the 25-cent hamburgers, of course, along with the baskets of fried chicken and Mom's apple pie. Mrs. LaBonte died last year, shortly before the restaurant marked its 60th anniversary.Today the bill of fare is mostly American in flavor, with an Italian and French flair. And of course on St. Patrick's Day in March there's plenty of corned beef and cabbage.To mark this year's anniversary there's an 8 oz cut of prime rib for $14.95, served with creamed horseradish sauce, roasted garlic mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables.Judi has her own special recipes which she passes out to the chefs who preside in the kitchen and she delights in planning for special events, whether a full-scale banquet or an intimate gathering of just a few.She doubles in spades, manning the bar on a regular basis, and seeming to be everywhere at once making sure things are running smoothly.We suspect Lou would be very proud of the legacy carried on today by his daughter and grandchildren and the loyal staff. (Julie Joiner's been there for 25 years, for instance.) Judi says she's looking forward to her children continuing the family tradition of entertaining people with good food and music Ah yes; Lou LaBonte's is an oldie but goodie for sure.Helen Bale's column runs every other Sunday in the Journal.