Farm to Table: Buck yeah

Somehow, one of the world's most resilient and nutritious foods ended up with the branding of a frontier-era shovel. Meet buckwheat. Also known as beechwheat, saracen corn or kasha depending on where you are and who's talking, buckwheat is one of those foods that has quietly existed for centuries while somehow never fully entering the modern culinary spotlight. In this edition of "English language is wild," buckwheat isn't actually wheat at all; it's a seed related to rhubarb and sorrel (an herb with a lemony flavor). Oh, the deception! But, this is actually a bit of good news for those with celiac disease or other gluten intolerances because these guys are naturally gluten free. Buckwheat is unusually high in protein, at least for a pseudo-grain, and it contains all nine essential amino acids, which is sorta rare in plant foods. It's also a great source of magnesium, manganese, fiber and antioxidants. Buckwheat flour often shows up in everything from Japanese soba noodles to Breton galettes, the savory buckwheat crepes of France usually stuffed with eggs, cheese and ham. Elsewhere, toasted buckwheat groats become kasha in Eastern Europe, while northern Italy folds buckwheat into hearty pasta dishes like pizzoccheri. Basically, buckwheat has been quietly carrying entire regional cuisines on its oddly triangular little back this whole time. Flavor-wise, buckwheat lands somewhere between earthy, nutty and "the food co-op employee definitely recommended this to me once" but in a sleeper-hit kinda way. It pairs especially well with mushrooms, butter, onions, cream, sharp cheeses and roasted vegetables, which is probably why it shows up so often in rustic, seasonal cooking. Toasting the groats deepens the flavor even further, giving dishes a warm, almost malty richness that works just as well in a picnic spread as it does in something slow and savory. Buckwheat is especially beloved in Slovenia, where it became a staple thanks to its ability to thrive in mountainous regions and cooler climates where other crops struggled. Over time, it worked its way into everything from porridges and dumplings to breads and spoonable side dishes like ajdova ka&scaron;a (ay-dova ka-sha). Which, admittedly, sounds a little like a spell someone casts in a fantasy novel but is actually a deeply comforting buckwheat dish often prepared with mushrooms, onions and herbs. It's also a bit of a tardigrade, if you will, as it grows well in poor soil and cooler climates where many grains struggle. It grows quickly and is often used as a cover crop because it helps suppress weeds and improve soil health. AND, pollinators are big fans of buckwheat flowers, resulting in a dark, rich and prized honey known for its strong flavor. In other words, buckwheat is out here multitasking for the ecosystem. And while buckwheat may never quite achieve the celebrity status of quinoa, perhaps that's part of the appeal. It's humble. Hardy. A little quirky. The kind of ingredient that quietly keeps doing its job without needing a rebrand every six months. In a food world constantly chasing the next trendy superfood, buckwheat is just over here minding its own bucking business. Buckwheat Crepes with Asparagus & Snow Peas In honor of BriarPatch's 50th anniversary celebration this week, we pulled this recipe from an old issue of our quarterly magazine, The Vine. These buckwheat crepes with asparagus and snap peas are a simple nod to seasonal eating, best enjoyed when spring produce is at its peak. Makes 6-8 servings Ingredients 1 cup unbleached flour 1 cup buckwheat flour 2 eggs (more for optional topping) 2 Tbsp oil ½ tsp salt ½ cup water (or as needed) 1-2 bunches asparagus spears (2 or 3 per crepe) ½ lb snap peas (3-4 per crepe) Optional fillings: meat of choice, fried egg, fresh herbs, scallions, and/or cheese Directions Beat all ingredients (minus filling) until perfectly smooth. Grease a nonstick or iron skillet. When it's hot, pour in a large serving spoon of batter, tipping the pan around so that the bottom is evenly covered for a thin pancake. When the small bubbles turn to holes, flip the crepe and cook for about 30 seconds. Stacked on top of each other, these will stay warm in the oven. While crepes cook, steam asparagus. Destring snap peas and steam if desired (raw is great for crunch). Fold or roll into the crepes 2 or 3 steamed asparagus spears, 3-4 snap peas and optional toppings like cheese, sauce such as béchamel, bacon, prosciutto, fried egg, fresh herbs, etc.